Scandinavian food

THE Scandinavian aesthetic has always celebrated tasteful simplicity. While the warm Mediterranean countries were developing their reputation for culinary complexity, frigid northern Europe had to perfect the art of natural, rustic survival food.

Decidedly less sophisticated than French or Italian cooking, Scandinavian recipes savour the elegance of basic flavours. Long winters have made the people masters of food preservation and maximising the bounty of their icy waters and foreboding forests.

Strict geographers limit Scandinavia to the peninsula encompassing Sweden and Norway. But by most accounts, the region’s cultural ties extend to Denmark, Iceland and even unique Finland by special dispensation. National boundaries here are even more porous when it comes to food, as traditional recipes and national dishes are conspicuously similar between countries.

One of the most striking aspects of Nordic cuisine is its heavy reliance on wintry preserving techniques. Salting, pickling, drying, smoking, curing and fermenting are commonly applied to seafood – particularly herring, salmon, lutefisk and haddock. Other popular meats include reindeer, horse, elk, bear and more prosaically, beef, mutton and pork products. Incidentally, this high intake of fat, sodium and cholesterol has resulted in a noticeably elevated prevalence of cardiovascular disease in subarctic Europe.

Root vegetables are dominant, especially rutabagas, potatoes, carrots, onions, turnips and parsnips. Germanic use of cabbage and dumplings betrays a considerable influence from the region’s Baltic and Teutonic neighbours, while religious attention to coffee and bread breaks hints at even more southerly regions of the old continent.

Another important element of Scandinavian fare is its liberal use of dairy. Heavy creams and yoghurts are applied generously to various recipes. And the naturally soured and cultured milks represent how almost all food groups are subject to winter-ready preservation methods. According to the International Dairy Federation, Finland and Sweden lead world milk consumption by a long shot – a statistic that explains the wide variety of mild cheeses, thick milky sauces and buttery gravies.

Sound heavy? Actually, although it evolved from wintertime sustenance needs, Scandinavian food doesn't have to be as warm and weighty as it first appears. As many dishes are seafood-based and served cold – traditional Nordic techniques and flavour combinations often adapt well to Australian climes. And the intense flavours created by the ubiquitous preservation methods make Scandinavian food perfect for small serves and nibbly spreads of light finger food.

Which brings us to the smorgasbord. An institution throughout Scandinavia and related cultures, the smorgasbord is an informal and homey buffet. No room for place settings on the table, the smorgasbord is typically practiced like an overflowing holiday feast. While the uninitiated will be tempted to sample everything at once, natives of the region insist on prescribed phases of self-serving. Literally “open-faced sandwich table” in Swedish, smorgasbords allow us to sample the strong flavours of Scandinavian cuisine in small doses and experiment with various flavour medleys. Surprisingly summery.

Scandinavian recipes

The food of the Vikings hasn’t changed too much in the last few centuries. The concepts are basic, the flavours powerful and the recipes easy to prepare. Garlic, dill, horseradish, parsley, rosemary and scented mustards are key ingredients. The following four recipes are a good starting point, but it’s easy to improvise your own creations once you get comfortable with the overarching style. When you start putting things together, just think, “what would Erik the Red do?” 

Gubbröra

• 6 eggs
• 2 egg yolks
• 2-3 tbsp of Swedish caviar (Kalles kaviar)
• 125g of anchovy fillets
• 1 small bunch of parsley
• 1 small bunch of dill
• 1 small bunch of chives

Hard boil and peel the eggs. Chop them finely and place them in a bowl with the egg yolks and Swedish caviar. Chop the anchovy fillets, parsley, dill and chives and add them to the mixture. Mix well and refrigerate until cold. Serve as a canapé by placing a teaspoon of the mixture onto small squares of dark rye bread and sprinkle with finely chopped chives.

Gravlax

Raw salmon marinated in a mixture of salt, sugar and dill. Gravlax is an ever-present feature of a traditional smorgasbord and is considered to be one of Scandinavia’s best contributions to international cuisine. Be sure to use a fresh, centre-cut salmon fillet.

• 750g fillet of fresh salmon
• 40g sugar
• 55g salt
• 2 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
• 150g fresh dill
• 2 tsp capers, to garnish
• 1/2 onion, thinly sliced, to garnish
• 1/2 lemon, to garnish
• 80g natural yogurt
• 2 tbsp horseradish
• 1 tbsp lemon juice

Combine the salt and sugar in a bowl and generously coat both sides of the salmon. Sprinkle it with black pepper and cover it with the fresh dill. Put the seasoned salmon in a plastic bag and place it on a large plate. Leave the salmon to marinate in the refrigerator for 18-24 hours, under a weight to infuse the flavours.

Before serving, prepare the sauce. Combine the yoghurt, lemon juice and horseradish in a serving bowl.

Take the salmon out of the refrigerator and wash it under running water to remove the salt and sugar. Dry the fillet well with a clean cloth. Cut into paper thin slices, following the grain of the salmon. To make slicing easier, heat the blade of the knife under hot water between each slice.

Arrange the slices on a plate and garnish with capers, dill, finely sliced onion and slices of lemon. Serve with rye or crisp bread and the horseradish yoghurt sauce.

Köttbullar (meatballs in mushroom cream sauce)

• 60ml of fresh bread crumbs
• 1 onion, grated
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1/4 tsp paprika
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
• pinch of nutmeg
• 250g ground beef
• 250g ground pork
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 6 cups of sliced mushrooms
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 30ml flour
• 375ml beef stock
• 125ml cream

In a bowl, combine the eggs, breadcrumbs, onion, mustard, paprika, half the salt and pepper and the nutmeg. Add the beef and pork mince and mix well. Form the mixture into small balls.

Place the meatballs side by side on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees and cook for 15-20 minutes.

In the meantime, heat the vegetable oil in a large deep frying pan. Add the mushroom, thyme and the remaining salt and pepper. Simmer until the mushrooms begin to soften. Add the flour and cook until it has been absorbed. Add the stock and cream and cook, stirring frequently for 2 minutes.

Add the meatballs to the pan and allow them to simmer, turning them gently until the sauce thickens.

Hasselnødlagkage (Danish hazelnut layer cake)

• 9 egg yolks
• 2/3 cup caster sugar
• 3/4 cup blanched, ground almonds
• 3/4 cup ground hazelnuts
• 9 egg whites
• 1/4 cup kirsch (cherry brandy)
• 1/4 cup raspberry jam
• 500ml whipping cream
• 24 whole hazelnuts
• icing sugar

Beat the egg yolks until thick. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat until the sugar starts to dissolve. Add the ground nuts and mix well.

Beat the egg whites until stiff. Gently fold into the yolk mixture.

Pour the mixture into 2 well-buttered layer-cake tins and bake in a preheated moderate oven (175 degrees) until the top of the cake springs back quickly when you touch it. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Cover the top of each layer with half of the liqueur, then with a thin layer of the raspberry jam. Carefully place one cake on top of the other.

Whip the cream and spread over top. Decorate the cake with the whole hazelnuts and dust with icing sugar.